Hedi Slimane, the Michael Jordan of menswear, might have walked away from Saint Laurent last night—and the Style Guy was there to witness the … “What Yves Saint Laurent has achieved over the past four years represents a unique chapter in the history of the house,” François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of Kering, said in a joint statement with Saint Laurent. The change marks the growing influence of the newly promoted creative director Hedi Slimane, who … Ad Choices, Hedi Slimane Steps Down as Designer for Yves Saint Laurent, Unfortunately, this is not an April Fool's prank. 18.09.2014. The rumor. In the fourth quarter, revenues at Saint Laurent catapulted 37.4 percent to 287 million euros, or $318.2 million, a 27.4 percent gain stripping out the impact of currencies. He ended up signing on with luxury rival Dior, embarking on an ambitious project that electrified men’s wear with his glitzy fashion shows and minimalist boutiques. In fact, so much of what Slimane has done in his three-and-a-half-year tenure is straight out of YSL, the man’s, playbook. Justin Bieber at Saint Laurent's Los Angeles show in February. After much whispering in fashion circles, celeb-fave designer Hedi Slimane has exited his role has creative director of Saint Laurent. Bold shoulders at the fall 2016 couture show in Paris. For now, Slimane's studio for Céline is based in Los Angeles, where his Saint Laurent quarters sat in a bubble of West coast trends. Saoirse Ronan in Saint Laurent at the Golden Globes in January. So far, Hedi Slimane has had a major impact on fashion multiple times, at multiple brands. He courted the biggest names in pop, like Justin Bieber and Lady Gaga, who became huge fans of his clothes. Kering, parent of the mythic fashion houses, said the separation comes at the end of a “four-year mission, which has led to the complete repositioning of the brand.”. To revisit this article, select My Account, thenView saved stories. A Courtney Love-inspired baby-doll dress on the runway in 2013. Lanvin recently named Bouchra Jarrar as its new women’s designer, while Dior has yet to name its successor. Slimane cited … From 2012 to 2016, he was the creative director for Yves Saint Laurent. The changing of the guard at YSL will spark another guessing game about Slimane’s next move. Hedi slimane california song by norma Dess.Music Waldeck mix by norma Dess. Slimane went '90s again on the June 2015 runway. 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Glamour may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. Kering and Saint Laurent would only say that “a new creative organization for the house will be communicated in due course.”. Just this February, he showed a the first half of the brand's fall collection in Los Angeles to a celeb-packed house, including Gaga, Bieber, Elizabeth Olsen, Lily Collins, and lots more. Michelle Williams in a dress of Slimane's design at the Met Gala in 2013. After the Gucci group purchased the house, Hedi Slimane decided to resign on Thursday March 23, 2000. Slimane is the James Dean of the haute couture world. Hedi Slimane / SAS Yves Saint Laurent L'Œil de la Photographie July 8, 2020 After 4 years of rich collaboration, SAS Yves Saint Laurent and its former director of creation and images are entering their fifth year of legal battle. Watch the many hair colors of Kylie Jenner. HEDI SLIMANE has hit back at criticism over his decision to rebrand Yves Saint Laurent, changing the name of the ready-to-wear line to Saint Laurent Paris. His women’s show in Paris on March 7 was more intimate, staged at the brand’s Rue de l’Université couture salons with no music as he paraded what some saw as a parody of Eighties fashion excess. We'll keep you posted but, until then, check out some of Slimane's most memorable moments from the past four years. First was Yves Saint Laurent, of which Slimane became the director of menswear at the age of 27. He exited that brand in 2007 and pursued a photography and art career before returning to the fashion fold in 2012 at the creative helm of YSL, which he rechristened Saint Laurent to return to the initial impulses in the Sixties that drove the late, legendary couturier to introduce rtw. From his home base in Los Angeles, Slimane overhauled the house with a new graphic identity; a widely copied store concept involving acres of veiny marble and gleaming shelves; and influential, mostly black-and-white campaigns lensed by the designer himself featuring a cast of music personalities and edgy models. In his time at the house, Slimane injected it with youth and music, with collections inspired by '90s grunge, late '70s disco, and the like. Just this February, he showed a the first half of the brand's fall collection in Los Angeles to a celeb-packed house, including Gaga, Bieber, Elizabeth Olsen, Lily Collins, and lots more. Thomas Chauvet, luxury analyst at Citi, downplayed the impact of Slimane’s exit on the brand’s future performance, arguing its growth prospects and potential for margin expansion remain intact. Saint Laurent's creative director, Hedi Slimane, rarely talks, but he spoke to Yahoo Style for an exclusive, very extensive (nearly 10,000-word) story. While he received some barbs from critics for repetitive collections inspired by grunge and other music subcultures, Saint Laurent under Slimane charted rapid growth, outpacing most other designer brands as the luxury sector entered a period of more moderate expansion. Likewise, being born in the world’s art capital, Hedi learned … Born in Brussels, Vaccarello studied sculpture at La Cambre, and came onto the international fashion radar in 2006 when he won first place at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography for his collection inspired by Italian porn star La Cicciolina. From the moment he took the creative reins at the storied French house in … Slimane bid adieu to YSL for the second time in 16 years in dramatic fashion, having staged his fall 2016 men’s show in Los Angeles on Feb. 10 as part of “Saint Laurent at … SEE THE NEW YSL LOGO To revisit this article, visit My Profile, thenView saved stories. Hedi Slimane (French pronunciation: [eˈdi sliˈman]; born July 5, 1968) is a French photographer and fashion designer. Hedi Slimane Wins $11.5 Million From Saint Laurent A French court ruled the designer had been underpaid by as much as €9.3 million after taxes by Saint Laurent-owner Kering for his last year of service at the brand. Sadly, the designer has not mentioned anything when it comes to his parents and siblings. Returning to design after five years devoted to photography and art making, Slimane revved up the brand with retro, rock ‘n’ roll-inspired fashions and a “reform project” that touched everything from the collection architecture and carrier bags to the VIP discounts at its boutiques. Designer Hedi Slimane. Slimane’s exit delivers another shock to the French fashion scene, wracked late last year by the exit of Raf Simons from Dior and the ousting of Elbaz from Lanvin. He added that Saint Laurent management told analysts the company would “mark a pause in the brand development and not over-expand the retail network to protect exclusivity.”. Hedi Slimane has not forgotten how to shock the fashion world, after all. Last September, she named him the creative director of Versus, putting him in charge of the men’s and women’s collections under her supervision. An art history graduate from the École du Louvre, Slimane emerged from fashion’s shadows during his first stint at YSL. your personal data may be jointly controlled by yves saint laurent sas and kering for marketing and other purposes as detailed in our privacy policy. Sonic. April 1, 2016. This comes a day after Cara Delevingne revealed she was the star of the house's fall 2016 ad campaign on Instagram. At Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane made arguably a bigger impact than any high fashion designer of the 2010s. Hedi Slimane. And in the fashion world, you don’t get a … In a research note on Friday, Chauvet said the brand registered its highest operating margin ever in the second half of 2015 — approximately 20 percent — and this should rise on scale effects, more leather goods sales, pricing, maturity of the store network and “better absorption of fixed costs.”. In the spring of 2016, shortly after it was revealed that Hedi Slimane would vacate his position as creative director at Saint Laurent, the Paris-based brand wiped its Instagram clean of the largely black-and-white imagery that captured Slimane’s cult-favored offerings over the previous 4 years. Two years later, he scooped the ANDAM fashion award. Hedi Slimane in 2014 A photo posted by Cara Delevingne (@caradelevingne) on Mar 31, 2016 at 10:05am PDT Delevingne in the house's new ads. The rumors have at long last been confirmed that Hedi Slimane is leaving Saint Laurent, the house that he renamed and reinvented. Slimane bid adieu to YSL for the second time in 16 years in dramatic fashion, having staged his fall 2016 men’s show in Los Angeles on Feb. 10 as part of “Saint Laurent at the Palladium,” an event that attracted the likes of Lady Gaga, Jessica Alba, Kate Hudson, Justin Bieber, Demi Moore, Lenny Kravitz, Lisa Bonet, Zoë Kravitz, Elle and Dakota Fanning, Ellen DeGeneres, Portia de Rossi, Gia Coppola, Eva and Asia Chow, Alexa Chung, Miranda Kerr, Jessica Stam, Elizabeth Olsen, Tallulah, Rumer and Scout Willis, Langley Fox and Dree Hemingway, Emma Roberts, Dominic Sherwood, Sam Taylor-Johnson, Zac Efron and Sylvester Stallone. His debut collection last Octoberas the designer of Saint Laurent failed … Yves Saint Laurent becomes Saint Laurent, courtesy of Hedi Slimane (yves saint laurent, saint laurent, Hedi Slimane, fashion) You must be brave to dare to tinker with an established brand’s logo. The second half of his collection was presented in Paris last month as a "surprise" couture collection, rife with lamé evening gowns, bold shouldered chubbies, and minidresses galore. These changes were being implemented under the skillful hands and sharp gaze of a baby-faced designer called Hedi Slimane, whom Pierre Bergé (Saint Laurent’s partner and the co-founder of his brand) had appointed director of menswear and, later, artistic director. Unfortunately, this is not an April Fool's prank. And so the worst-kept secret in fashion has been confirmed: Hedi Slimane, the creative and image director of Yves Saint Laurent, has left … your personal data may be shared with associated companies and service providers to satisfy your request. PARIS — Hedi Slimane is making his second exit from the creative helm of Saint Laurent. In his time at the house, Slimane injected it with youth and music, with collections inspired by '90s grunge, late '70s disco, and the like. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. Sources said Slimane’s initial contract as Saint Laurent’s creative and image director expired on Thursday. After being dogged by constant rumors that he was leaving the house — and a persistent refrain that Anthony Vaccarello would be his successor — Hedi Slimane has exited Saint Laurent, per a statement released this morning by parent company Kering. Slimane was granted total creative responsibility for the brand image and all its collections, succeeding Stefano Pilati after a fruitful, if turbulent, eight-year tenure for the Italian designer. Vaccarello would join one of the fastest-growing fashion houses in Europe. Check out our hedi slimane ysl selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Saoirse Ronan in a Yves Saint Laurent Couture dress and Chopard jewelry. He has created a movement rather than a trend. It also coincided with 10 years of the designer’s photo blog, “Hedi Slimane’s Diary,” which has frequently documented the California scene. It finally happened, and, no, it’s not an April Fools’ Day prank. PARIS—Hedi Slimane, the mercurial designer who set French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent on course to be luxury’s next billion-euro brand, is … Vaccarello, 33, would become only the sixth ready-to-wear designer at YSL. The rumor mill has it that Anthony Vacarello, king of the high slit, will take Slimane's seat at Saint Laurent. Highsnobiety Hedi Slimane’s tenure at Saint Laurent has been nothing if not controversial. Privacy Policy and The Frenchman's last day of his four-year tenure at the esteemed fashion house was Thursday, as reported by Women's Wear Daily. A weekly guide to everything you should add to cart, but haven’t yet. A designer partial to the racy, fast-paced side of fashion, Vaccarello had recently been recruited by Donatella Versace for her reboot of the Versus brand. “I am very grateful to Hedi Slimane, and the whole Yves Saint Laurent team, for having set the path that the house has successfully embraced, and which will grant longevity to this legendary brand.”, YSL ceo Francesca Bellettini echoed his thanks, noting “the direction that has been taken over the last four years represents an incredible foundation for the brand to build on for its continuous success.”. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement and Your California Privacy Rights. © 2021 Condé Nast. Unfortunately, this is not an April Fool's prank. The Yves Saint Laurent ready-to-wear collection is to be rebranded Saint Laurent Paris. Named creative director of Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, Hedi Slimane quickly made headlines when news was announced that the label would undergo a rebranding. Updated Wednesday March 7, 6.12am: Hedi Slimane has been named the new creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. Today’s announcement is sure to speed the naming of Slimane’s successor, widely expected to be Anthony Vaccarello — and possibly in time for the spring 2017 shows in Paris this fall. © Copyright 2021 - Penske Media Corporation. At present, Dior has Kris Van Assche designing men’s wear, Victoire de Castellane in charge of high jewelry, Peter Marino masterminding the store architecture — and a host of famous ambassadors, including Jennifer Lawrence and Marion Cotillard. Saint Laurent counted 142 directly operated stores at the end of 2015, compared to 525 at Gucci and 251 at Bottega Veneta. Saint Laurent presented its Fall collection in Los Angeles at the Palladium before Fashion Week. Hedi Slimane’s First Year at Saint Laurent. Slimane earned his reputation as a men’s wear maverick, initially making a name for himself as the designer of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme in the late Nineties, when Elbaz was in charge of women’s rtw, before going on to popularize skinny black suits and rock-tinged androgyny at Dior Homme. Many of these younger consumers come for the so-called ‘Cult of Hedi,’ a devoted fashion tribe, which has followed Slimane throughout his career, from Yves Saint Laurent menswear to Dior Homme and back to Saint Laurent. WWD first reported on Jan. 13 that Vaccarello was the frontrunner to succeed Slimane, who had failed to reach an agreement on a new employment pact at Saint Laurent. He subsequently went on to work at Fendi and in 2009 launched his namesake collection in Paris, where he continues to show. Hedi Slimane’s second ready-to-wear show for the iconic French label was built on flannels, cardigans and baby-doll dresses in various florals. Reflecting the increasing role of Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta in the group’s growth, Kering appointed Bellettini and Bottega Veneta ceo Carlo Alberto Beretta as new members of its executive committee. Successors to the legendary couturier, who retired from fashion in 2002 and died in 2008 at the age of 71, also included Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati. To alter the actual name, not just the logo, requires steely courage. April 1, 2016 at 5:58 p.m. UTC. By subscribing, you agree to our He was a pioneer in inviting contemporary artists such as Ugo Rondinone to put works in YSL stores, positing his clothes in a broader cultural context. A photo posted by Cara Delevingne (@caradelevingne). Explore the latest collections of luxury handbags, ready to wear, shoes, leather goods and accessories for men and women. covering the alternative music scenes in London and California. Hedi Slimane | Photo: Y.R. After much whispering in fashion circles, celeb-fave designer Hedi Slimane has exited his role has creative director of Saint Laurent. Hired as an assistant in fashion marketing at YSL in 1997 and then quickly promoted to designer, Slimane successfully revved up the label’s Rive Gauche Homme collection with sleek, androgynous tailoring: leather trenchcoats, pinch-waist suits and plunging shirts. 11.01.2015. Angelina Jolie in an undone Saint Laurent tuxedo, a Slimane signature. From 2000 to 2007, he held the position of creative director for Dior Homme (the menswear line of Christian Dior). Impressed by his provocatively sexy and audacious styles, Donatella Versace in 2013 tapped him as a guest designer for her revamped Versus brand. This comes a day after Cara Delevingne revealed she was the star of the house's fall 2016 ad campaign on Instagram. Don't miss the top fashion industry news breaking this week. It was not immediately clear if he is to continue working for the Italian firm. The designer was inspired by the nomenclature that the label's eponymous founder used when he first set up the brand in 1966, then called Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Question marks around an eventual Vaccarello appointment include men’s wear, which he had only designed for Versus. Studio portraits of such artists as Lou Reed, Keith Richards, Amy Winehouse, and Brian Wilson were displayed alongside more recent works. Slimane is said to have coveted control over YSL’s beauty business, but did not hold any sway with the operation, controlled by L’Oréal, which acquired the business in 2008. Dakota Johnson in red velvet Saint Laurent at last year's Oscars. The second half of his collection was presented in Paris last month as a "surprise" couture collection, rife with lamé evening gowns, bold shouldered chubbies, and minidresses galore. His last runway show was Autumn-Winter 2000. His first full collection was for fall 2015 retailing. Saint Laurent revealed in March 2012 that Slimane would rejoin the house as its creative director, a dozen years after he exited YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme to heat up Dior Homme. The Frenchman's last day of his four-year tenure at the esteemed fashion house was Thursday, as reported by Women's Wear Daily. He courted the biggest names in pop, like Justin Bieber and Lady Gaga, who became huge fans of his clothes. Terms of Use. Angelina somehow made her covered-up tuxedo pantsuit look as sultry as a left-leg-baring dress by leaving her bow tie undone and lightly mussing the neckline of her tuxedo shirt. These dramatic changes seem to signal a seismic shift in the fashion industry, as star designers buckle under the pressures and/or restrictions of an accelerating and high-stakes industry. There’s been nothing quiet about Hedi Slimane’s ascent, but that aside, it’s striking how much Fury’s criticisms fall in line with the same ones leveled at YSL early on in his career. After successfully launching its designer incubator program, Shein is inviting young, diverse, creatives and designers…. Discover Saint Laurent Official Online Store. After much whispering in fashion circles, celeb-fave designer Hedi Slimane has exited his role has creative director of Saint Laurent. This exhibition took stock of the fifteen years that Hedi Slimane spent photographing musicians. The skinny jeans he introduced at Dior Homme carried over to much success and the collections he debuted at Saint Laurent were mostly well received. “The strategy is unlikely to change materially post Slimane’s departure and we believe that the Saint Laurent brand will capitalize on its solid foundations and strong DNA,” Chauvet noted. All rights reserved. Saint Laurent recorded revenues of 974 million euros, or $1.08 billion, last year with a network of 142 stores — far fewer locations than mega brands such as Gucci, Dior, Chanel or Louis Vuitton.
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